Sequels, part two's, second albums. Much like all of the above, a chef's second restaurant after the success of their first can be a daunting, exciting and occasionally risky venture unless there's a strong vision behind it. If you're a food fan in Nottingham you've more than likely heard of Marcus Lewsley, probably from visiting his hugely successful first restaurant MESA that he left a little under a year ago, or perhaps from a past pop up event or following his Instagram. Having had such an amazing first four years in the industry, it's no suprise that the main buzz around town for the last few months has been about his next venture - Raymond's on Stoney Street, a bar with a serious wine list and a menu of small plates with more formal dining to be had upstairs later in the year.
In all honesty I can't say I actually had any worries that Marcus wouldn't pull it off. I've long been a fan of his imaginative creations, fusing cuisines in unexpected ways that pack punch after punch of flavour and texture - food with an evolution like a good cocktail.
The moment I caught a glimpse of the menu online I was excited to see that Raymond's was taking things in a slightly simpler direction with what appeared to me as a backbone of classic French and Italian flavours taken in new directions. The kind of dishes that live or die by the quality of the produce. I was lucky enough to have a table for the soft launch last week and let me tell you, there are absolutely no casualties here.
While I'm a bit of a cocktail nerd I have to confess my wine knowledge is not as strong, so my husband Pete and I took Marcus's recommendation on the pinot noir. I may not be a vino afficionado but I know something delicious when I taste it and this was it. To me the nose was full of ripe cherries and the initial flavour was soft but rich, then brightening into a little more blackberry like acidity with a hint of vanilla. Wow I almost sound like I know what I'm talking about... but I digress. Massive extra points for being able to order a glass, a bottle or a 500ml carafe on a lot of the menu - perfect for trying a few different wines without having to have just one glass or go whole hog on a full bottle.
We ordered nearly everything on the menu, aside from the snacks where we just tried the one - the fish crackling. I'm a massive fan of crispy fish skin snacks that Japan and Korea do so well, so I knew this would be a hit with me. It came with a lovely subtly tarragony aioli and even Pete who isn't a huge fish fan enjoyed these crispy little shards of deliciousness. The slightly thicker pieces with more fat that had bubbled up in the frier were my favourites, a little salty with a snappy texture and made even more heavenly with a little dip of silky, rich aioli. A truly perfect drinking nibble.
Next up was the fish crudo - lovely not too thick and not too thin slices of raw salmon in an oil and citrus dressing. To compliment the natural fattiness of the fish were segments of grapefruit, lightly herbal micro greens and fresh jalapeno rings that added the slightest kick of heat. I don't know what the green oil is, but I know I love it.
Now for what seems to be the talk of the town as it had been hyped up to us by three people this evening before we even arrived - the beef tartare. I was excited to see a 'something on bread' because I very fondly recall dishes like this that Marcus made in his MESA days (anyone else miss the fire grilled focaccia with lamb fat?) and this did not disappoint in the slightest. The lovely Calum from Pogo (shout out to my fave bar!) had told us that it tasted like a Big Mac in the best way possible and he was oh so right. Sometimes when a chef tries to create a high end version of a low brow classic its a bit swing and a miss as it can be taken overboard and lose that flavour nostalgia that we crave, but that was not the case here. Stunningly delicious finely chopped beef and gherkin atop smoked beef fat buttered bread which really mimicked that griddled burger taste, finished with a slathering of creamy mustardy sauce and a snowfall of oniony chive. Truly a perfect mouthful and one I will order every time for as long as it sits on the menu.
Next was a dish I was honestly not expecting to blow my mind, but boy when you get a good tomato it really is a treat. A base of creamy ricotta and a slick of fabulous olive oil was piled high with perfect ripe and juicy heritage tomato slices, zipped up with pickles shallot slices, a few little salty anchovy fillets and the freshest of fresh basil. Summer on a plate, or at least the kind of Summer I dream of, on a plate.
This was a highly anticipated one - the fried chicken with garum caramel. I'd seen a photo of it on IG and got very excited at the prospect of an almost Korean style fried chicken dish with a sticky sweet saucse, but with a very different flavour profile than you would usually see. Rather than the gochujang and soy infused sauce you'd usually expect, this syrupy concoction was flavoured with garum (a type of fish sauce) and I think some warmer more aromatic spices. Either way, it was fantastic. Perfectly juicy chicken with a crispy breading that didn't go soggy despite the sauce, with fresh herbs, red chilli slices and lime to balance out the sweet, fatty, fried deliciousness.
Now another dish I had been very excited for as I'm a big courgette fan. This one is actually meant to be made with courgette flowers rather than the vegetable itself, but you have to go with what the vegetable supply gods give you and today it was courgette. This was assuredly not a problem. Tempura fried logs of perfectly cooked and not even slightly mushy courgette sat atop a little swirl of ricotta and buttery peas, then sprinkled with a zesty lemon gremolata that made the whole thing sing. You know this is good because Pete, who usually avoids courgette at all costs, actually said this was his favourite dish of the night! Mind blown, but it really was a bit spesh.
Our final plate was a perfect palette cleanser or crisp apple slices and thinly sliced fennel with peppery watercress and I think the red leaf is a type of ridicchio. Dressed with a honeyed vinaigrette and showered with earthy pecorino this was a real delight all in itself, but especially as an accompaniment to the richer dishes we had enjoyed.
We ended our meal with a light, creamy basque cheesecake and this it was my turn to be surprised as I'm usually disappointed by these burnished beauties - but not this time. The balance of richness, sweetness and slightly bitter burnt topping with just perfect and it didn't have the claggy texture that some suffer with - this was light but decadent, almost moussey and with a wonderful blackberry sauce that was neither too tart not too sweet.
In case you hadn't gleaned it from the above, we left Raymond's very full and very happy, with the glow of those that know they just ate a very special meal. The decor and the atmosphere was perfection, buzzy and friendly and vibrant and I just love the window seats where we were - the perfect spot for a date night as you can't help but gather in close to each other on the high stools to share your dishes, with the added bonus of excellent people watching while you enjoy your a glass or two. I cannot wait to go back and if I wasn't excited about Upstairs at Raymond's before (erm, I was) I bloody well am now.
Thank you so much to Marcus for inviting us along and to his wonderful team for looking after us so wonderfully. I hope you're very proud of what you've created, because it really is just something special.
Raymond's is located on Stoney Street right between vibrant Hockley and historical Lace Market in the heart of Nottingham.
Raymond's Website --- Raymond's Instagram
Opening 7th August 2024
Wednesday - Friday: 5pm - 12am
Saturday: 1pm - 12am
Sunday: 1pm - Close
Raymond's, 8 Stoney Street, Nottingham, NG1 1LH
The second part of the venue, Upstairs at Raymond's, is currently set to open in October, offering refined dining and live fire cooking.